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I just got my new baby beardie I need a little help
- Thread starter Nero
- Start date
- Messages
- 4,285
- Location
- Connecticut
What are his basking and cool side temps?? Are you providing a good source of UVB? What is he housed in? Are 3 sides covered for some security?
I have him in a 20 gal he has 2 hide sides the cool side is 80 other side is at 100. I just checked on him a while ago he seems to be moving more at least his heads up. Im just nervous I dont want him to die or anything, I dabbed some water on his nose and he licked it up to make sure hes hydrated and i chopped his food up pretty good with some mustard greens and green kale with stawberries and carrots in them.
- Messages
- 4,285
- Location
- Connecticut
He needs UVB. A ReptiSun 10 at 12", or a MegaRay at 12" to 18". Without it he'll develop MBD and start twitching or have convulsions.
We bought our youngest BD from a young first time breeder who didn't have any UVB. He was about 1 month old when we bought him and started twitching within 3 days. We gave him a drop of Bone-Aid every day (as a quick fix only) and in 3 days he was much better. Don't mean to scare you, but they do need UVB.
Feed him properly gut-fed small crickets (no bigger than the space between his eyes), as many as he'll eat in 10 minutes, twice a day. He may not eat much salad at that age. Dusted all food calcium. Our biggest BD ate 70-80 crickets per day for a few months.
We bought our youngest BD from a young first time breeder who didn't have any UVB. He was about 1 month old when we bought him and started twitching within 3 days. We gave him a drop of Bone-Aid every day (as a quick fix only) and in 3 days he was much better. Don't mean to scare you, but they do need UVB.
Feed him properly gut-fed small crickets (no bigger than the space between his eyes), as many as he'll eat in 10 minutes, twice a day. He may not eat much salad at that age. Dusted all food calcium. Our biggest BD ate 70-80 crickets per day for a few months.
- Messages
- 4,285
- Location
- Connecticut
Is he eating any crickets? Ours wouldn't eat much salad.
If he isn't alert there must be something wrong. Possibly nutritional.
If he isn't alert there must be something wrong. Possibly nutritional.
H'es not alert he will move time to time in a quick manner. I just saw him eat his greens which made me feel a little better. Im just giving him a lot of water and he seems to be lickin it but i dont know maybe hes just not use to his new home, If this doenst change in a few days im gonna call a vet up its only been one day so far ill give it to the end of the week
- Messages
- 4,285
- Location
- Connecticut
Have you offered any crickets? If he's hungry/interested that will get his attention and get him moving. At least he at some greens.
If you've only had him a day he will need some adjustment time.
If you've only had him a day he will need some adjustment time.
- Messages
- 372
More than UVB, bearded dragons need proper need proper temperatures to metabolize. That's a cause of MBD that is too often overlooked. Animals kept in improper conditions fail to process nutrients and develop MBD. There are ample cases of breeders breeding and raising bearded dragons without any UVB at all.
Do I use UVB. Yeah, there's no reason not to. Just understand that these lights are not anywhere near as effective as natural sunlight.
Hope I don't get flamed for this.
Do I use UVB. Yeah, there's no reason not to. Just understand that these lights are not anywhere near as effective as natural sunlight.
Hope I don't get flamed for this.
- Messages
- 4,285
- Location
- Connecticut
Flame!!! Why flame!! They do need proper temps to digest their food. He said he has 100 degrees basking, which isn't bad, closer to 110 would be better. He doesn't say how that was measured.shiftylarry said:More than UVB, bearded dragons need proper need proper temperatures to metabolize. That's a cause of MBD that is too often overlooked. Animals kept in improper conditions fail to process nutrients and develop MBD. There are ample cases of breeders breeding and raising bearded dragons without any UVB at all.
Do I use UVB. Yeah, there's no reason not to. Just understand that these lights are not anywhere near as effective as natural sunlight.
Hope I don't get flamed for this.
The MegaRay will probably come as close to natural UVB as you'll get in a commercially available bulb. The only problem with having a basking bulb put out high amounts of UVB is if they feel they need more heat they're going to get more UVB, and the other way around. They can't choose UVB without heat.
- Messages
- 372
Dave: You'd be surprised. Some people get legitimately upset when they hear me talking about UVB not being entirely necessary, but I'll stop there.
Concerning the proper temperatures, I highly recommend getting a temp gun to measure you temps. This makes much more sense than measuring the ambient temps. Temp guns can measure surface temps such as those on your basking surface. When you bearded dragon moves under the light, its skin becomes the surface that is absorbing the heat and the skin will reach close to the same temperature as the basking spot. You'll find that they like it very hot. Get a rheostat and you can mess with the temps. I don't go by any specific temperature. Just raise it until they stop going under it. Although I think you'll find 120 surface temp is going to suit you nicely.
-Chris
Concerning the proper temperatures, I highly recommend getting a temp gun to measure you temps. This makes much more sense than measuring the ambient temps. Temp guns can measure surface temps such as those on your basking surface. When you bearded dragon moves under the light, its skin becomes the surface that is absorbing the heat and the skin will reach close to the same temperature as the basking spot. You'll find that they like it very hot. Get a rheostat and you can mess with the temps. I don't go by any specific temperature. Just raise it until they stop going under it. Although I think you'll find 120 surface temp is going to suit you nicely.
-Chris
hey guys thanks a lot. I just got back from the pet store i got some more things i put 2 therms on the side one higher and one lower. I do have a branch that reaches to the near top of the cage it measures around 115 at the very top. I have another therm about 2 inches from the surface that reads 104 and the other side is around 85. Plus i got some spray that gives electrolytes and other nutrients and I just got done spraying him. hes under the basking spot right now its its almost 10pm Pacific time. Should I turn that off or just leave it on? Once again guys thank you very much this is my first bearded dragon so i wanna be the best and most responsible owner I can possibly be!
- Messages
- 4,285
- Location
- Connecticut
Sounds like you're do OK!
Here's good care sheet. http://crossfiredragons.com/caresheet.html
And a great source for nutrition info. http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
Here's good care sheet. http://crossfiredragons.com/caresheet.html
And a great source for nutrition info. http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
- Messages
- 273
I've noticed with a lot of younger beardies in petstores tend to have some respiratory problems. I mean it doesnt sound like a heck of a lot like repiratory infection, but it is still a possibility and maybe you should look into it.
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- 823
It wouldn't hurt if you had a bottle of Vet Rx. If he does have RI a drop on the end of its nose would help tremendously. Micro Meal worms are good for getting them to eat. They move alot and get their attention good. I'm with shiftylarry on the UVB. T-Rex makes a product that you can dust insects and veggies with and they don't have to have UVB. Supplimenting D3 is necssary if not using a UVB light though. People say monitors have to have it too. Not if you supplimant D3 they don't. Chameleons either for that matter. I have kept them all and have never used UVB lighting. I do use natural sunlight when I can. Natures Mist reptile Spray is also a good product to use. I use it all the time.
